Family ski holidays are not for the faint-hearted. At least that’s what Kate Freud thought before she travelled to Flims in Switzerland for an action-packed February half term ski adventure, along with her husband Jack and two children Jago, six and Georgia, three.
As my bedside clock’s insufferable alarm screeches its 5.30am wake up call, I shudder for a second at the thought of rousing our two small children and getting them – and our copious luggage – to the airport. But, as it turns out, this proves the only low point in what becomes one of those magical family holidays that goes without a glitch.
I needn’t have worried either about waking my children Jago and Georgia, who despite the unsociable hour are both so excited about skiing, they couldn’t be more delightful. By the time we – I say we, I really mean my husband Jack who traipses a grand total of eight bags through the airport – have everything safely checked in, it’s the start of a seamless journey.
We’re travelling with Powder Byrne, a luxury travel company whose ski trips have become something of legend. They charter their own British Airways flights to Friedrichshafen in Southern Germany, before a short 90-minute coach ride over the Swiss border to Flims. It means that from the moment you set foot on the plane you see the same friendly faces for the rest of the week, creating a great sense of community that we weren’t expecting.
We’re met at the airport in Germany by a high-energy, enthusiastic Powder Byrne team, who put all our luggage on the coach, feed us in transit and take us to get our skis fitted as soon as we arrive, so that by the time we get to the Waldhaus Flims hotel, everything’s in place for the following day’s adventures. The Waldhaus is a hidden gem of a hotel that just screams old-school luxury from the moment you step inside. It’s grand but welcoming, and I’m ashamed to say, the kids are tearing around treating it like home in no time. We head to our room – a huge space with a super king for Jack and I, and a pull-out double sofa bed for the children, overlooking the stunning, snow-drenched pine forests surrounding the hotel. There’s a touch of Narnia about the place; a real sense of magic in the air.
Our first port of call, along with our other weary travel companions is the hotel’s breath-taking spa which has not only a beautiful indoor pool – essentially housed in a glass box on the snow – but an outdoor pool, heated to 37 degrees, steaming in the hazy afternoon light. It’s such a welcome sight, proving the perfect antidote to a day’s travel, and the place where each day after skiing, we retreat en famille for a muscle-relaxing fun-filled hour before supper.
The next day we’re up early for breakfast, before dropping Jago off at the Yeti ski school at 8.15am. All the children arrive suited and booted, before being given helmets and Powder Byrne bibs, and catching a short coach ride to the slopes. Thankfully Jago joins the group happily, as the instructors are high octane and fun from the off, clearly enjoying it as much as the kids do.
It turns out in fact that Jago loves skiing so much, getting him off the slopes proves the problem. So each day after ski school, he’s collected by his dad and they ski for another hour together, returning to the hotel around 4pm. By the end of the week, he’s hurtling down blue and red runs, (what he lacks in finesse he makes up for with speed and fearlessness) with his proud parents looking on filled with a mixture of pride and terror.
As I’m pregnant and unable to ski, the rest of my week basically hinges on whether Georgia likes the pb crèche and Yeti Primer ski school or not. At three, I know that if she isn’t keen, I’ll feel too guilty to leave her (scuppering my plans for a peaceful child-free morning each day), so I’m over the moon when she trundles in without a backwards glance, makes countless friends and loves the Yeti Primer two-hour skiing session each day.
Jack too merrily heads off with a Powder Byrne guided ski group of those with similar abilities to his own (and a similar love of vin rouge), and I find myself, by some kind of miracle, sitting by the pool reading a book by 8.45am. I can’t quite believe my luck, when each morning after a swim, I head back to our room for a sleep, before collecting Georgia at 12pm. It’s probably the most R&R I’ve had since having children, and the timing couldn’t be more perfect.
And so it is that everyday unfolds in pretty much the same way, with Georgia and I going to meet Jack on the slopes for lunch on a couple of occasions. This, it turns out is only made possible by our Powder Byrne guide Sam, who has to escort us on the chair lifts each day to the restaurant, carrying a sleeping Georgia who’s exhausted herself with her morning’s ski. Without him, and me in my second trimester, I probably wouldn’t have made it further than the hotel reception, but this, I soon discover is what really sets the Powder Byrne experience apart.
You’re allocated your own representative for the week, who takes care of restaurant bookings and feedback on how your kids are getting on in ski school but also goes above and beyond in a way unparalleled by any other company I have skied with. Another mum for example, was on her own with her two young children for the week. Parents were given time out of lessons and groups to ski with our youngsters one day, and she was unsure about how she’d manage both little ones by herself, Powder Byrne provided a guide for the day to join her and the children on the slopes, all included in the package.
It’s a holiday aimed at making the whole family happy, so Flims, which is so child friendly really does prove the perfect resort. We’re spoilt for choice with places to eat, a particular favourite for lunch is Waldhaus Flim’s own Italian restaurant Pomodoro, which does a great set meal deal and for some seriously good steak, La Vacca can’t be beaten. We also enjoy the Capalari Swiss restaurant on the mountain, all stripped pine and faux fur, and easy to access for Georgia and I whilst the boys skied down together. In the evenings we eat early with the children at one of the hotel’s four restaurants. Epoca is a fabulous treat for an evening meal, while the Il Tschaler fondue restaurant is a favourite with Jack and I, though the children are still deeply dubious about all that melted cheese, and The Grand does a fabulous buffet that proves to be our go-to for most of the week because of its varied menu. As we all pile into bed at 8.30 each night, happily exhausted (Jack and I to watch something on the iPad), I can honestly say it’s a holiday like no other. To know that your children are having the time of their lives – whilst we parents, guilt-free, also get to enjoy a little me time – is a rare thing, and for that alone, it’s worth every penny.
By Kate Freud
For more information on holidays to Flims, speak to one of our Travel Consultants on 020 8246 5300 or click here.