A Tohoku Skiing Odyssey

Mention skiing in Japan to most British skiers and it’s likely they’ll reference a small handful of internationally acclaimed resorts. They’ll certainly be aware of the promise of deep powder, the big resorts of Hokkaido, perhaps the Olympic resorts of the Nagano region, but most will be unaware that ski resorts in Japan now number nearly 500 (albeit many are small local resorts) and there are many undiscovered gems. But to explore the lesser known resorts and find your own treasures takes an enormous leap of faith, unless you can put your trust in someone who knows their onions, so to speak, when it comes to the local stories and the right ingredients for a successful skiing experience. Allow Powder Byrne to shine a light on the skiing in the region of Tohoku, easily accessed from Tokyo thanks to the quick and efficient rail system.
In search of Yetis in Japan
The term ‘Juhyo’ is a combination of the kanji character words for ‘tree’ and ‘frost’, but the distinctive shapes that the high altitude Maries’ fir trees take on in winter when exposed to relentless icy blasts and huge volumes of powder snow gives them their more affectionate name ‘snow monsters’. Because of the rare conditions required to create these extraordinary natural formations, there are only three locations where they can be encountered. All are in ski resorts in the Tohoku region and the best of these is the impressive ski resort of Zao Onsen. The Zao snow monsters have to be seen to believed, whether whizzing past on skis, illuminated at night as you soar above them by gondola, or up close and personal on a cat-track tour.
Zao Onsen is a special resort for many reasons. Long before skiers started to flock to the snow filled bowl, the temple of Risshakuji in the heart of the old town has been welcoming visitors since the year 860. The rich sulphur waters of this town gurgle up in the most unlikely places and made Zao famous as an onsen (traditional spa) town since the middle ages. People still flock to the acidic baths available throughout the resort in private hotels and public bath houses to enjoy the rejuvenating effects of the milky sulphurous water which improves skin tone by strengthening blood vessels, soothing muscles and aching joints, and improving a range of ski complaints. Onsen in Zao is an experience not to be missed, and such was the draw of this magical resort and landscape, the celebrated haiku poet Matsuo Basho was believed to have enjoyed time here and composed one of his most iconic works, ‘The Cry of a Cicada’, written in 1690.

Skiing in Zao Onsen
The ski resort is the largest in the Tohoku region offering a total of 57 slopes served by three gondolas and other lifts and is renowned for its amazing powder snow. It is well connected, with different inter-linked ski zones, offering slopes for all abilities from beginners to experienced skiers. Those in search of distance will not be disappointed as Zao offers a lot more than most. The Juhyogen slope is the longest intermediate slope in the resort offering a run of just over 10km from the top to resort centre. The first 2km are through the majestic ‘snow monsters’ on the highest slopes before you work your way down through a variety of terrain on your way to the finish at the village centre. There is steep gradient to play with here, including the popular Sailer piste, named after the renowned Austrian skier Toni Sailer who was a regular visitor to Tohoku. Sailer was the first to win 3 gold medals for Alpine skiing at the Winter Olympics of 1956 in Cortina d’Ampezzo and with more than 170 major victories to his name, it’s not hard to see why the Japanese have celebrated his love for skiing in Zao with a memorial in his name on the mountain. Should any reassurance be needed, such a key association with one of Austria’s most celebrated skiers should give an indication of the treats that lie in store for serious skiers.
There is a considerable offering for non-skiers too in Zao, with cat-tours of the snow monsters, lovely cross-country skiing through the protected forests of Japanese larch, and plenty of marked winter walking paths, not to mention the onsen baths to while away your time. The village centre has a fantastic modern Sake Museum and tasting bar which celebrates the many award-winning sake producers of the Tohoku region and this, along with a range of bars and restaurants offer attractive aprés-ski options in addition to the excellent hotel restaurants. Night skiing is available on the Uwanodai piste, the original slope of Zao, which was the site of only the 2nd ski lift to be constructed in the whole of Japan.
One thing is abundantly clear about Zao Onsen – it is a ski resort that can hold its own against the better known resorts in terms of skiing and snow quality but also a town that is so rich with history and cultural heritage that it’s in a league of its own. For any skier looking for a more authentic experience, an alternative to the international-styled resorts, you can feel confident of what awaits you in Zao.
Zao Onsen is a special resort for many reasons. Long before skiers started to flock to the snow filled bowl, the temple of Risshakuji…has been welcoming visitors since the year 860.

Ryokan Miyamaso Takamiya – a rare hotel with Imperial links
There are various hotels of note in Zao Onsen, but our pick is a hotel that oozes tradition and heritage and promises it’s guests a rare window on Japanese hospitality from another time. Miyamaso Takamiya was once a favourite of the Japanese Imperial family, and black and white photos adorn the timber framed walls and museum pieces and antiques are layered with more modern styling to create an impressive boutique atmosphere. It feels more like a private home than a hotel and the service we experienced was slick even by Japanese standards. There is no doubt they understand the careful balance between attentive service and privacy to allow guests to enjoy the beautiful facilities and feel at home. Accommodation is offered in traditional style rooms with tatami floors and mattress beds with views out over the old town clouded in hot spring steam rising from occasional buildings. The impressive suites are a real highlight for anyone looking for a truly unforgettable experience.
Zao Onsen is accessed by shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata station in 2h 30min where you’ll be met by your private driver for the final 30 minute drive up to the resort. It is perfectly located to combine with a broader itinerary to explore the Tohoku region both the Pacific coast to the east, the city of Sendai, or linking together with a two-centre ski adventure to the Aizu resorts to the south.

Skiing in Aizu, Fukushima prefecture, Tohoku
There are 22 ski resorts in the Aizu ski region, and given the quality, reliability and quantity of snow cover, it’s hard to understand why they are still relatively unknown outside Japan. Two of these resorts, Alts Bandai and Urabandai are located on the slopes of Mount Bandai, commanding spectacular views south over lake Inawashiro. The region is famed for its smooth, dry ‘micro-fine’ powder snow which blows in from the Sea of Japan and is one of the snowiest areas of Japan. The snow is some of the driest on earth, so dry in fact, that no matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to make a snowball! Along with spectacular views of the mountain range, the stand-out aspect of these Aizu ski resorts is their quiet slopes, and compared to skiing the more popular resorts, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve arrived in your very own private ski resort. Skiers looking to blaze their own trails and find their own slice of powder paradise may well agree they have found the holy grail in Aizu.
Convenience is king for many skiers. Together with our local specialist partners, we’ve researched and visited two skiin/ski-out hotels in the resorts of Urabandai and Grandeco, each within a 20 minute drive and in particular the Grandeco Tokyu Resort impressed, with beautiful rooms, facilities, a choice of restaurant and an accommodation style with a great mix of Japanese and western influences. This would be a great base for a family or friends, as the slopes are literally from the door, the gentle lower slopes provide plenty for beginners and intermediates to build their confidence, whilst more confident skiers will be spoilt for choice with the options to explore this and other neighbouring resorts. Urabandai resort will no doubt play an important role as we continue to expand our skiing programme in Tohoku.
Getting to the resorts in Aizu is surprisingly convenient from Tokyo thanks to the efficient shinkansen (bullet train) service. From Tokyo it’s a relaxing 90-minute journey of only 4 stops to Koriyama station, where you’ll be met by a private driver who, in just 1 hour, will deliver you safely to your hotel in the beautiful natural surrounds of Mount Bandai. Such convenience makes these resorts particularly suitable for shorter stays and ski weekends, ideal if you are keen to experience the famous powder whilst also ensuring there’s time to explore other must-see locations in your itinerary. Powder Byrne’s Tohoku ski programme is a fantastic addition to our existing programme in Japan and we can’t wait to introduce skiers to the delights of these unique resorts. Our specialists are ready to share more of the region’s secrets…
For more information on holidays to Japan, speak to one of our Travel Consultants on 020 8246 5300 or click here.